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Sumire Susukino: honest review of Sapporo's original miso ramen (Hokkaido)
Sumire (すみれ) in Susukino is one of Sapporo’s most famous miso ramen shops, serving a bold, miso-forward broth under a thick lard cap that keeps it scorching hot. If you want to taste the dish Hokkaido is credited with popularizing, this is a confident recommendation — a genuinely good food experience more than a knockout flavor bomb.
Where it is
Hokkaido is the birthplace of miso ramen, so it almost has to be on the list for any Sapporo trip. Sumire is run by the son of “Junren,” a shop that helped popularize miso ramen, who took over the family trade. It is not the original main store, but there is a Sumire branch in Susukino, and after seeing it praised in a food video I decided this would be where I’d have my miso ramen of the trip.
The Susukino branch sits on the 2nd floor (Minami 3 Jonishi, 3 Chome 9-2, Chuo Ward). The original main store is in Nakanoshima, Toyohira Ward. We were out enjoying the Susukino streets and arrived around 5 p.m. — the line already stretched down the stairs.
How the wait and ordering work
The queue moves fairly quickly, probably because ramen turns over fast. You order at a kiosk first, hold onto your ticket, and the staff check it. We waited about 30 minutes before being seated. On the table you’ll find a charmingly old-school cup of chopsticks alongside vinegar, pepper, and chili powder.
What to order
There is a basic miso ramen and a miso ramen with extra chashu, the latter layered with stacked slices of pork. I had the basic one — exactly like the video. A thick layer of lard caps the bowl, and when you scoop broth from underneath, hot steam rises up; it’s genuinely fascinating. The lard is intentional, keeping the ramen warm so you can take your time with it.
What it tastes like
The first spoonful is strikingly miso-forward — you really feel like you’re eating miso ramen. After a few bites, though, it can start to feel heavy: oily or salty. That’s when the table condiments earn their place. A splash of vinegar lightens it; pepper or chili powder shifts it into a different style. Personally I think this is a ramen that gets tastier when you keep adjusting it as you go — I added vinegar partway through, while my companion sprinkled on chili powder. My companion, who loves ramen and noodle dishes generally, enjoyed it and was glad to experience another genre of noodles.
Verdict
For me it was less an over-the-top “incredible, must-try!” and more a good, worthwhile food experience. The flavor was solid, though it grew saltier and a touch greasy the more I ate — the vinegar helps. When you travel, eating well matters, but so does experiencing a dish with real history behind it, and Sumire satisfies that beautifully. If you also want options nearby, Sapporo’s famous ramen alley (Ramen Yokocho) is packed with miso ramen shops worth a look.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Sumire in Susukino?
Sumire's Susukino branch is on the 2nd floor at Minami 3 Jonishi, 3 Chome 9-2, Chuo Ward, Sapporo (〒060-0063). The original main store is in Nakanoshima, Toyohira Ward.
How long is the wait at Sumire?
We waited about 30 minutes when we arrived around 5 p.m. The line moves fairly quickly because ramen turns over fast, even when the stairs are full of people.
How do you order at Sumire?
Order at the kiosk before you sit down, keep your ticket, and the staff will check it. There is a basic miso ramen and a version with extra chashu (pork).
What does Sumire's miso ramen taste like?
A bold, miso-forward broth sealed under a thick layer of lard that keeps it piping hot. It is rich and can feel oily or salty after a few bites — add the table vinegar to lighten it, or pepper and chili powder to change it up.